Okay, so.. Race bikes.

  • Discuss Okay, so.. Race bikes. in the BMX Bike Tech forum in area BMX-Forum Community; I was thinking of getting into Racing, I was thinking of getting the following setup. I'm not decided on the gearing, and crank size yet. If you have... ...
cgfxmosh

cgfxmosh

New Member
Okay, so.. Race bikes. post #1
I was thinking of getting into Racing, I was thinking of getting the following setup. I'm not decided on the gearing, and crank size yet. If you have any suggestions on the gearing/crank size, or comments on the parts, I'm also thinking of either 45-16 with 180mm cranks, or 43-16 or 175mm cranks. I'm not sure if I want top-end or acceleration,

Frame: S&M .38 Special
Fork: Odyssey Classic Race
Bars: S&M RV

Stem: Profile Acoustic
Headset: FSA Impact

Front Wheel:
Rim: Primo Balance 7005 36h Black
Hub: Profile Mini
Spokes: DT

Rear Wheel:
Rim: Primo Balance 7005 36h Black
Hub: Profile Mini Cassette
Spokes: DT

Crank: Profile Lite Cranks
Pedals: Odyssey Trail Mix
Sprocket: Profile Imperial
Chain: KMC SL

Brakes: Shimano
Cable: Odyssey Linear
Lever: Primo J-Lever

Seat: Fit ECCD
Post: Odyssey Intac
Clamp: Animal

Grips: Duo Homan
Barends: Shadow

Tires

Front:
Maxxis Holy Roller 2.25
Rear:
Maxxis Holy Roller 1.95
 
johnuk

johnuk

New Member
Okay, so.. Race bikes. post #2
Here's what I use....

Wheel sets:
KHE MAC 1 tyres
KHE Twiggy innertubes
Alienation runaways (lightest double walls I could find)
Regular non butted spokes and brass nipples (would change these to double butted and alloy nipples)
Profile mini hubs with Ti bolts and driver

Forks, Supercross Pro LT (about the same weight as carbon fibre but not as expensive or risky)
Frame, Supercross Evo S7 (2.4lb alloy frame) + lizard skins chainstay protector (since mini gearing hits the chain against the stay)
Bars, Fly Mosca
Elementary Stem (have the V2, the V3 is fractionally lighter)

Macneil 25t primary sprocket (lightest I could find)
Profile race cranks with Ti spindle and Ti flush bolts
Welgo MG-1 pedals cast magnesium with Ti axles (300g for a pair)
KMC 710SL chain - profile chain tensioners
Federal pivotal seat
MacNeil seat post

Shimano XTR V-brake with Avid Speed Dial lever

They're about the lightest components you'll get before they become too breakable to be realistic. The forks have a weight limit on them of 170lbs

My bike is under 18lbs, but it cost a crazy amount to build and I could only do it because I got super lucky selling something. But you can use that list as a guide to the kinds of weights available if you're not going for all of it. If I was doing it for less, I'd perhaps avoid the titanium at first and focus on things like the KHE MAC tyres, tubes, spokes, rims and nipples. Also, consider buying a load of stuff second hand. Even if it's grubby, you so long as it's not scratched to ass or broken, you can probably get it resprayed in the colours you want for less than the new price - if you're buying low weight components you usually have to put up with what you get colourwise

I think my cranks are 185mm, but it's your gear ratio that'll change the acceleration / final speed balance. You really choose crank length based on inside leg measurement.

I find the regular 2.7 ratio works nicely. Sometimes I wish I could go a little quicker but that'd sacrifice my evil escape acceleration at lights.
 
Last edited:
cgfxmosh

cgfxmosh

New Member
Okay, so.. Race bikes. post #3
Here's what I use....

Wheel sets:
KHE MAC 1 tyres
KHE Twiggy innertubes
Alienation runaways (lightest double walls I could find)
Regular non butted spokes and brass nipples (would change these to double butted and alloy nipples)
Profile mini hubs with Ti bolts and driver

Forks, Supercross Pro LT (about the same weight as carbon fibre but not as expensive or risky)
Frame, Supercross Evo S7 (2.4lb alloy frame) + lizard skins chainstay protector (since mini gearing hits the chain against the stay)
Bars, Fly Mosca
Elementary Stem (have the V2, the V3 is fractionally lighter)

Macneil 25t primary sprocket (lightest I could find)
Profile race cranks with Ti spindle and Ti flush bolts
Welgo MG-1 pedals cast magnesium with Ti axles (300g for a pair)
KMC 710SL chain - profile chain tensioners
Federal pivotal seat
MacNeil seat post

Shimano XTR V-brake with Avid Speed Dial lever

They're about the lightest components you'll get before they become too breakable to be realistic. The forks have a weight limit on them of 170lbs

My bike is under 18lbs, but it cost a crazy amount to build and I could only do it because I got super lucky selling something. But you can use that list as a guide to the kinds of weights available if you're not going for all of it. If I was doing it for less, I'd perhaps avoid the titanium at first and focus on things like the KHE MAC tyres, tubes, spokes, rims and nipples. Also, consider buying a load of stuff second hand. Even if it's grubby, you so long as it's not scratched to ass or broken, you can probably get it resprayed in the colours you want for less than the new price - if you're buying low weight components you usually have to put up with what you get colourwise

I think my cranks are 185mm, but it's your gear ratio that'll change the acceleration / final speed balance. You really choose crank length based on inside leg measurement.

I find the regular 2.7 ratio works nicely. Sometimes I wish I could go a little quicker but that'd sacrifice my evil escape acceleration at lights.
I'm also worried about going to light, my S3 was 23lbs, if I went much lighter I might not be able to control the bike as well, plus I want to keep it as close to my street setup as possible without it going all crazy.

I'm more concerned with gearing then I am parts, I know the parts I want. I just don't know the gearing yet.
 
johnuk

johnuk

New Member
Okay, so.. Race bikes. post #4
Going light depends almost entirely on how you ride. About the only thing I wouldn't be happy doing on my frame is grinding, since it'll wear through the alloy too quickly or dint it. But hopping and jumps down flights of stairs haven't caused me any problems

I can reach the maximum my bike will go with the gearing it has in maybe 3 seconds - I can't go any quicker than that because my feet can't spin any quicker. Unless you're racing on long flats, you won't have time to build up huge speeds, you'll need lots of torque to keep accelerating as you turn or go over things - so I'd stay with 2.7 unless you're racing on roads
 

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