Bicycle Repair 101

E

evanc

Guest
Bicycle Repair 101 post #1
Bicycle repair 101:

Grips: Seem simple, but there’s always stupid people.
Easiest way to remove them is with an air cpomressor. Put the little nozzle under the grip and turn on to slide them off. Repeat to put on. WD-40 can also be used with a screwdriver to lift the grip.

Forks: Removal/installation
Materials:
1) Allen key for stem
2) Wrench for top bolt on stem
3) Screwdriver
4) Hammer
5) Pipe, 1 1/8” I.D.

Procedure:
1) Loosen pinch bolts on stem.
2) Take out top bolt.
3) Remove forks.
4) Take screwdriver and place under the race at the bottom of the fork.
5) Hit a few times, firmly, and them rotate all the way around.
6) Slide off fork race.
7) Slide onto new steerer tube.
8) Place pipe on the race, over the steerer tube.
9) Pound on top of pipe to firmly slide on fork race.

Headset: Tightening and Removal/installation.
Removal/installation:
Materials:
1) Hammer
2) Flathead screwdriver
3) 8”bolt
4) 4 thick washers
5) Nut for bolt
6) Grease

Procedure:
1) After forks are out, pull out bearings and all that jazz and set aside.
2) Put screwdriver on rim of cup (inside headtube) and hit a few times, hard. Work your way around until it’s out.
3) Repeat for other cup.
4) Put each new headset cup in place, on each end of head tube.
5) Put two washers on each cup with bolt through the middle.
6) Tighten nut onto bolt, thus pulling the greased cups into the headtube.
7) When all the way in, remove bolt/washers/nut and store for later use.

Tightening:
Materials:
1) Allen Key for stem.
2) Wrench for top of stem.

Procedure:
1) Loosen pinch bolts on back of stem.
2) Tighten top bolt.
3) Tighten pinch bolts.


Cranks: Tightening and Removal/installation (three-piece only)
Removal/Installation:
Materials:
1) Hammer
2) Socket wrench extension
3) 8” bolt
4) 4 thick washers.
5) Nut for bolt.
6) Grease.

Procedure:
1) Remove crank arms from spindle.
2) Pound out spindle with hammer.
3) Using socket wrench extension, pound out bearings and cups.
4) Put new, greased cups on outside of the bottom bracket, 2 washers on each side with bolt through the middle.
5) Tighten nut until bearings/cups are firmly in place.
6) Pound spindle back through bearings.
7) Put on crank arms.
8) Tighten spindle bolt until desired tension achieved.
9) Tighten pinch bolts (if available).

Pedals: Removal

Materials:
1) 9/16" (or 1/2" if you have one-pieces) wrench.
2) Liquid Wrench or something similar

Procedure:
1) Lay bike down on left side, so the right pedal is facing you.
2) Put wrench on pedal, in a position that's easy to turn.
3) Lock your brakes.
4) SHARPLY turn wrench.
5) Fully remove pedal.
6) Turn bike over.
7) Put wrench on left pedal.
8) Lock brakes.
9) SHARPLY turn wrench.
10) Fully remove left pedal

Note: If pedals are firmly stuck, drip an anti-corrosive fluid into the threads. let sit over night, then when going to turn the wrench, hit the end it of with something heavy/hard (like a hammer/mallet). It should break the bonding force of the rust.

Brakes: I am not going to address set-up tips

Note: Always, ALWAYS run a high-quality lub through you cables. I mean pour it on in there until it runs out the other end. LUBE YOUR CABLES. I can't stress it enough.

Putting on 990-style brakes (straight cable) on rear:

Materials:
1) Allen set
2) Adjustable wrench
3) Straight cable
4) Tri-Flow or something similar
5) Brake lever
6) Straddle cable
7) Cable hanger
8) Cable cutters

Procedure:
1) Put a drop of lube on outside of posts and on threads.
2) Set brake arms on posts how they should go.
3) Tighten bolts into mounts until they are ½ - ¼ turn from fully tight.
4) Turn springs equal amounts so the arms spring away from the rim.
5) With spring held in position with wrench, fully tighten the bolts.
6) Put the lever on the bars.
7) String cable from lever through cable stops.
8) Put cable hanger on cable, not fully tightened.
9) Put straddle cable through one brake arm, around seat tube, then tighten into knarp on the other arm.
10) Set cable hanger in place so the pads are positioned at desired position to rim.
11) Tighten cable hanger.

Gyros:

Using stock cables: It’s the same concept as a straight cable.

Putting on gyro/dual cables from scratch:

Materials:
1) Gyro
2) Odyssey Modulever (or something similar)
3) Dual upper cables (for lever)
4) Gyro plates (if needed)
5) 2 2-foot deraiuller cables, with housing.
6) London Mod (comes with Evolvers)
7) One bag of Odyssey knarps (http://store.odysseybmx.com)
8) Cable cutters

Procedure:
1) Put dual uppers in lever.
2) Cut to length.
3) Knarp into place in gyro.
4) Put the balls of the deraiuller cables into the gyro.
5) Bolt London Mod on last cable stop.
6) Put housing on cables, cut to length.
7) Put brake arms on mounts.
8) Screw bolts into mounts until ¼ turn from fully tightened.
9) Put EQUAL SPRING TENSION IN EACH ARM.
10) Hold springs in place, and tighten fully.
11) Bolt cables into knarps securely
12) If needed, fine tune adjustment may be achieved with the barrel adjusters.

Putting in Gyro plates: top and bottom
Materials:
1) Hammer
2) Screwdriver
3) Grease
4) 8” bolt
5) 4 thick washers
6) Nut for bolt
7) Gyro plates
8) Allen key for stem pinch bolts
9) Wrench for top bolt on stem

Procedure:
1) Loosen pinch bolts on stem.
2) Remove top bolt.
3) Slide off bars/stem.
4) Pull out fork.
5) Set bearings/spacers/races aside, carefully.
6) Put screwdriver on rim of top cup (inside head tube) and hit a few times, hard. Work your way around until it’s out.
7) Place lower plate around the rim of upper cup.
8) Replace upper cup on outside of head tube.
9) Place bolt through the head tube, with two washers on the outside of each cup.
10) Tighten nut until cups are firmly in place.
11) Place bearings/races/washers back in place.
12) Slide fork back in place.
13) Put upper plate on fork, above top spacer.
14) Slide stem/bar combo back on.
15) Tighten top bolt until there is no more wobble, yet still turns freely.
16) Tighten pinch bolts, hard.

Wheel truing
Materials:

1) Spoke wrench
2) Wheel
3) Truing stand/bike

Procedure:
Side-to-side movement:
1) Find where it bends out.
2) Loosen the spokes on the side where it bends out.
3) Tighten the ones on the inside of the bend.
4) Tighten the spokes on the outside to 'set' it in place.

Hop:
1) Find where it hops up.
2) Rotate wheel 180*
3) Loosen the spokes on that half of the wheel.
4) Rotate wheel 180* again.
5) Tighten that half of the wheel.
6) Rotate 180* again.
7) Tighten the loose spokes to 'set' the wheel.
8) Repeat until wheel is good.

Flatspot:
1) No real way to fix it except to remove the rim, find the flatspot, and hammer it out with a rubber mallet

Dishing:
1) Loosen the side of the wheel where it is too far over
2) Tighten the opposite side.
3) Tighten the first side to 'set' the wheel.




I was extremely bored/pissed off about all the topics asking the same repeated questions. I thought I'd help some folks out. I'll add more stuff in if anyone needs anything else. Any way I can get this stickied or whatever?

-Evan
 
4

415fsxrules

New Member
Bicycle Repair 101 post #2
u $hit man thanks for the help with the gyro and you are right people have been asking the same questions and u can go use search and find answers :?
 
E

evanc

Guest
Bicycle Repair 101 post #3
Yeah, so help me get this stickied or keep it up on top. Who would be down for some very basic wheel truing tips?
 
4

415fsxrules

New Member
Bicycle Repair 101 post #4
like tightening the bearings and stuff???
 
fenixbykeco

fenixbykeco

New Member
Bicycle Repair 101 post #5
Pounding metal against metal? :x NO. Hammer a piece of wood against the cups using a hammer. When you pound bottom bracket cups in with a hammer without wood it seriously screws them up. My friend knows from experience.
 
I

infantry43RIDER

Guest
Bicycle Repair 101 post #6
lot of tips and shit man....ill come back when im not ****ing lazy
 
E

evanc

Guest
Bicycle Repair 101 post #7
fenixbykeco said:
Pounding metal against metal? :x NO. Hammer a piece of wood against the cups using a hammer. When you pound bottom bracket cups in with a hammer without wood it seriously screws them up. My friend knows from experience.
Where did I EVER say to pound your bb cups in with a hammer? I said is a hammer and SOCKET WRENCH EXTENSION to get them out, as to not damage the bearings, and a bigass bolt/washers/nuts to PRESS them in.
 
L

leon_luxton

Guest
Bicycle Repair 101 post #8
i cant get my god damned pedals of.i think they are rusted on so i put millions of wd-40 and they still wont come of.i need em of to put a new sprocket on and new metal peadles on.plzz help!!! :cry:
 
B

Blah

New Member
Bicycle Repair 101 post #9
I think whenever I need big projects like taking off a Fork, I will just got to my local bikeshop. I also hate doing brake shit. :x
 
4

415fsxrules

New Member
Bicycle Repair 101 post #10
I dont trust anyone but me working on my bike,the bike shop always seemed to f$#% up my bike. :x
 
fenixbykeco

fenixbykeco

New Member
Bicycle Repair 101 post #11
evanc said:
fenixbykeco said:
Pounding metal against metal? :x NO. Hammer a piece of wood against the cups using a hammer. When you pound bottom bracket cups in with a hammer without wood it seriously screws them up. My friend knows from experience.
Where did I EVER say to pound your bb cups in with a hammer? I said is a hammer and SOCKET WRENCH EXTENSION to get them out, as to not damage the bearings, and a bigass bolt/washers/nuts to PRESS them in.

:x :x :twisted: :x :twisted: i didnt feel like fncking reading your whole fncking post beacuse it was to fncking long. i just assumed i am a assumer. so there. just watch what happens to your house fncktard :twisted:
 
4

415fsxrules

New Member
Bicycle Repair 101 post #12
i like to assume things too because usually iam too lazy :p
 
J

johntheguru

New Member
Bicycle Repair 101 post #13
Putting on gyro/dual cables from scratch:

Materials:
1) Gyro
2) Odyssey Modulever (or something similar)
3) Dual upper cables (for lever)
4) Gyro plates (if needed)
5) 2 2-foot deraiuller cables, with housing.
6) London Mod (comes with Evolvers)
7) One bag of Odyssey knarps (http://store.odysseybmx.com)
8) Cable cutters

Procedure:
1) Put dual uppers in lever.
2) Cut to length.
3) Knarp into place in gyro.
4) Put the balls of the deraiuller cables into the gyro.
5) Bolt London Mod on last cable stop.
6) Put housing on cables, cut to length.
7) Put brake arms on mounts.
8) Screw bolts into mounts until ¼ turn from fully tightened.
9) Put EQUAL SPRING TENSION IN EACH ARM.
10) Hold springs in place, and tighten fully.
11) Bolt cables into knarps securely
12) If needed, fine tune adjustment may be achieved with the barrel adjusters.
GREASE, don't forget it.

MOST IMPORTANT PART OF A GOOD FEELING BRAKE.

JOHN
 
E

evanc

Guest
Bicycle Repair 101 post #14
Yeah, I had Tri-Flow in the first materials section and just left it out for the others. It will be added shortly.
 
E

evanc

Guest
Bicycle Repair 101 post #15
God damn, can I get this stickied?
 
E

evanc

Guest
Bicycle Repair 101 post #16
K

Kaps

Guest
Bicycle Repair 101 post #17
and for the smartasses that actually use a carpenters hammer to remove there fork...YOUR A ****IN RETARD!



i use a rubber mallet.
 
E

evanc

Guest
Bicycle Repair 101 post #18
Were you talking to me? And who said anything about using a hammer to get out forks? Damn, it's not rocket science.
 
E

evanc

Guest
Bicycle Repair 101 post #19
C'mon Wynex. We're starting to get more questions again.
 
T

Twiztid_Missy

New Member
Bicycle Repair 101 post #20
leon_luxton said:
i cant get my god damned pedals of.i think they are rusted on so i put millions of wd-40 and they still wont come of.i need em of to put a new sprocket on and new metal peadles on.plzz help!!! :cry:
same prob here dude :evil:
 

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