[Article] BMX Fix-it

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L

Louis K

Guest
[Article] BMX Fix-it post #41
No problem :D
 
H

halfbreed

Guest
[Article] BMX Fix-it post #42
When I ride there seems to be some sqeaking noise in the cranks...I'm not sure if it needs regreased or what the problem is. Any ideas?
 
emilydickinson

emilydickinson

New Member
[Article] BMX Fix-it post #43
Squeaking cranks usually means the bb bearing is loose in the bb shell. Take out the bb bearing, re grease it, replace and tighten hard. While it's out of the bike inspect the threads in the shell for wear, sometimes those shells get chewed up really quickly.
 
D

drk_fly

New Member
[Article] BMX Fix-it post #44
to make levers and brakes work easier, do u put vaseline into the housing and the slide the cable in and out to work it in?? will this make pulling the lever easier?
 
emilydickinson

emilydickinson

New Member
[Article] BMX Fix-it post #45
Pull the wire (inner part) out from the housing (outer plastic wire/cable) and grease it with white grease, then re insert it. Don't use vaseline because it will eventually eat away at the plastic part of the housing.
 
D

drk_fly

New Member
[Article] BMX Fix-it post #46
white grease??

never heard of it


is there a product name that i can go buy that is white grease??
 
emilydickinson

emilydickinson

New Member
[Article] BMX Fix-it post #47
White grease is just a generic name, you can use any thing really, car grease, Park Lube, anything would use on a bike will work fine.
 
Bladerboi2k4

Bladerboi2k4

New Member
[Article] BMX Fix-it post #48
even petroleum jelly works
 
emilydickinson

emilydickinson

New Member
[Article] BMX Fix-it post #49
Petroleum jelly will wear down anything plastic it touches. Avoid.
 
R

remondo

New Member
[Article] BMX Fix-it post #50
traildemon said:
I've got some problems with my chain. I went trailriding and off course some dirt got in my chain. I took it off put it in some warm water, dried it, spayed on wd-40, dried it again and than sprayed on some lubricating oil, but my cain still makes a slight grinding noise, should I repeat all of the above or is there a much easier method?
thanks
I don't use WD40, it just attracts dirt so you will just get the same problems. I just use bicycle lube.
 
Jeff_Healitt

Jeff_Healitt

New Member
[Article] BMX Fix-it post #51
could also have a bit of dirt in your bb but i don't know i can't hear
 
J

Jezie R.

New Member
[Article] BMX Fix-it post #52
After seeing countless of posts about how to adjust u-brakes I guess I just can't take it any longer....

Unfortunately giving a 200 plus words worth of boring instructions is not going to do any jack ass shit if you don't understand how brakes ACTUALLY work. So here's a few pointers on how they ACTUALLY work and how to make them work LIKE A DREAM. So when you hit a snag, you can 'think' your way out. I used to hate people giving instructions without explaining the what and the why of things, in this case, the parts that make a brake a brake. So here goes...

Springs

When you are tensioning the spring you are 'preloading' the springs.
Springs are there to 'load' the inner cable ie. you are tensioning or preloading the cable i.e. they 'pull' the cable before you even pull the lever - by applying a load to the spring so it pulls the arms, so the arms pull on the cable, and so when you relaese the lever, the brake pads moves away from the rim. So when you pull the lever it doesn't feel mushy or you don't feel any 'slack', since a cable that is 'snug' inside a cable housing is more effecient in transferring loads than a cable that is all 'loose' and moves around in the cable housing before you pull the leaver. That is called 'SLACK', son. We don't need that in a brake.

Springs reduce slack in a brake.

For every spring in the world they have a yield limit and fatigue endurance, you can't expect them to
spring back into life after you stretch those poor bastards to death. Put a little tension a little at a time.
Do not 'overload' the spring or overtension or overtweak the spring. If you somehow deform it - you permanently 'yield' those poor springs When that happens, you can at least try flip them upside down, if it still feel sucky then you need a new one. To make sure both arms are properly 'tensioned'
pull the arms at the ends with your finger. They should feel the same for both of em.

What you NEED for these springs to do for your brake is to apply a decent 'tension' on the cable, but not too much that it's hard to pull. You need BOTH of the spring of both arms properly 'tensioned' or preloaded so the arms hit the rim at the same time when you pull the lever. Adjusting the "nut" that hold the spring allen bolt adjust the spring tension. You tension the spring by turning the nut towards the tyre. Tightening the allen bolt locks the setting of the preload permanently. Simple as piss.

Cable.

Lube yer cables. When I say lube, I really mean it. Use white lightning, finish line chain lube or any thin teflon lube. Put an ultimate pissload of the shit into the cable housing until the piss comes out the other end. What this does is, it decreases the coefficient of friction on any sliding contact areas so yadda yadda yadda... OK just lube the fuking cables, AIIIIIGHT?!?!?!

Another thing that is of utter importance is cable lenght, which brings us to the next part...

Cable yoke or cable pinching device.

Obviously this is a fastening mechanism that fasten the cable at the ends of the brake arms or the stradle cable on straight/single cable setup. Also
this lil bastard also adjust the cable lenght - how much cable you have until it 'stops' at this fastening device. Remember cable length and cable tension work in tandem, no matter how well you adjust them springs
if the cable is not properly pulled and fastenend with the proper lenghth
to the brake arms so there is less slack when you adjust the springs and pull the brake for that matter, it's going to suck monkey testacles. If you are going to use a cable 'yoke' or a straddle cable make sure the cable is as short as it can be.
If you use a dual lowers (which is the only thing that I recommend if you run gyros) you can adjust the cables easier because the cables are more direct to the end of the arms and there would be less stretch.
With a cable yoke you adjust the cable lenght at the pinching device.
With a dual lower you adjust the cable lenght at the end of the arms.


When you pull the cable and fasten the cable pinching device a little forwards you are moving the pads closer to the rims and vice versa. When you pull the cable and fasten the cable pinching device a little forwards you are making the lever less likely to hit your knuckles and vice versa.
Simple.

Barrel adjusters.

They are on your levers, on your frame and on numerous other funny places. They are all the same, because,
some people think that when you turn these lil fukers up and down on their threaded bosses, somehow, for some bizarre reason they are going to automatically improve braking performance by a mile. BOLLOCKS! For some people
these lil bastards are annoying as fuk, because what they actually do the best, is to annoy the fuk out of people. They really don't 'adjust' brakes magically from bad to good. They actually 'pretension' or 'preload' the cable by simply 'pushing' the inner sides of the cable housing against the inner cable. By doing so they reduce the coefficient of frition by making the cable rub onto the inner walls of the housing instead of the thin piss that you put into the cable housing and make the cable less smoother and make a localized 'gap' between the housing and the inner cable. Don't rely on them alone.

What you CAN do with these lil annoying bastards is to use it as a VERY LAST resort. After you adjust the cable lenght and springs and all that bollocks you 'loosen' it from their 'bottomed out' position to 'even out' any 'slack' on the inner cable.
By doing that you reduce any remaining 'gap' between the inner cable and cable housing AFTER you adjust the spring and adjust the cable lenght.
Not too much. When you 'loosen' the thing it pushes the outer cable so any gaps in the inner cable is pushed against the inner cable, but only a little so it does not make your brake suck. If there's too much slack you need to adjust the brake cable or the springs instead, not the barrel adjusters. Some of you might also notice that there are 4 barrel adjusters on Gyros, which to some people looks quite daunting and impossible.... There's a reason for this but I'll leave this part out just for fun... :D

Brake pads.

Ok I'm kinda sleepy right now so I'll make it short. On different brake pads there are different kinds of fastening it to the brake arms. You can adjust the clearance between the rim and the brake pad by adding or renmoving the spacer or adjusting how much the unthreaded post goes into the clamp that holds them. Just make sure you adjust the clearance so BOTH of them hit the rim at the same time when you pull the lever. You can boil them for 5 minutes, put simple green on which cleans and deodorize the pads, sand the fuk out of the pads until they are paper thin, call it names, beat it with a stick or put ketchup on them (which is one of the saddest things that I've ever heard)
but if your brake is not adjusted properly, I think you are better off without one and use your expensive shoes instead....
or yell "no brakes!!!!" and hope that pedestrians, trees, walls and ledges will move away by themselves. (not recommended)

Holy fuk I need to sleep. I've been long enough in front of the computer that my eyes are starting to get all mushy.
I really hope I've helped someone in here. And if anyone wants to know how to remove the 'gyro flop' just ask.
Any other questions any of you can ask emilydickinson or streetcowboy.

Remember dialling brakes is a piece of piss. YOu only have to understand how they work to appreciate the mechanical advantage that they deliver instead of putting your shoe on the rear tire or putting your foot down 'Flinstones' style. LEARN how to dial brakes if you value yer shoes, or your body.

Remember,

Brakes work by the prevalence of friction and the less amount of friction, by applying load and multiplying them by the means of mechanical advantage so you can stop on a dime by using A finger instead of both of your legs.

Press the lever after every adjustment to understand how your adjustemnt effetcs the braking performance

Balance is important.

Springs remove slack and 'bounds' the arms back.

Cable lenght is to remove slack in the cable and adjust the spacing or spacing of the brake pads and how much you pull the lever.

Brake blocks introduce friction so you can stop on a dime instead of falling on your bollocks when you hit pedestrians, walls, trees and annoying little skater boys and fruittbooting wankers.

Lube yer fuking cables.

Barrel adjusters are annoying as fuk and.

Slack is satan.


Signed,

Jesse Redford
 
emilydickinson

emilydickinson

New Member
[Article] BMX Fix-it post #53
Good work JR. Another good tip, before you thread in your brake cable, twist out the barrel adjuster 1 to 1 and 1/2 turns, that way you can have some minor adjustment in both directions. For greasing cables my favorite lubes are Slick Honey or Judy Butter, both are thin and work very well.
 
J

Jezie R.

New Member
[Article] BMX Fix-it post #54
^^^^^
That's a good tip too. :)

And thanks a lot. I originally wrote it for some dude who emailed me in some other forum, he said he needed to know EVERYTHING about how the little parts on a brake effect braking performance. By the way nice avatar! :)
 
N

nutsgeezer

Guest
[Article] BMX Fix-it post #55
Yeah I like the new avatar too.
This should be in the articles section now, therefore...
 
emilydickinson

emilydickinson

New Member
[Article] BMX Fix-it post #56
I like draw-ring new avatars on my easel.
 
S

Shane472

New Member
[Article] BMX Fix-it post #57
Never ever ever use wd-40 on your bike guys. The stuffs horrible. It draws dirt and dust to it that'll mess with your parts. Definetly not good. Stay away from it.
 
Eggit

Eggit

New Member
[Article] BMX Fix-it post #58
I should be getting a cassette soon and have never worked on one before. Anyone mind giving a crash course in cassette maintence as well as what additional tools are required. I asumme I will be needing a chain whip, anything else?
 
C

cav89

New Member
[Article] BMX Fix-it post #59
ummm, from memory you need a 19mm spanner/socket extensio for the axle nuts, depending on if you run pegs...

then i dont know the exact measurement, but a shifting spanner for the cone nuts. you dont really need a chainwhip, i get by just fine....

they shouldnt really need much maintence, but just check them out evry few weeks to make sure everything isnt broken....

im really wre4cked right now, bad cold, so ill re-itterate on this another time, with more specifics...
 
R

Rober

New Member
[Article] BMX Fix-it post #60
ok here is my problem I read all both articles on brakes and am still have ALOT of problems. My breaks worked fine until I cut my bars and moved my break down my bars a bit. Now when I pull the lever the bar goes down and I have to pull my lever hard as hell just to get my breaks to slow me down a LITTLE BIT the breaks dont even grab the wheel hard enough to stop me. The lever is mushy and isnt hard and springy like it used to be. I dont know how to explain my breaking system I have a oryg gyro with 1 cable from the lever that becomes 2 cables then past the gyro it becomes 1 cable then theres a thingy with a bolt that has a hole wich the line threads through and it is connected to this V shaped thing wich grabs on to the cord. I tried moving the V thing and that didnt work so I have no Idea what to do since I really dont understand alot of the words used in the articles =/
 

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