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How to fit a Gyro on an internal headset (pictures incl.)?

post #1 of 12
Thread Starter 

Hi all

I would appreciate some experienced guidance please, I bought a Salt AM Gyro but cannot see how to fit it. It came without instructions and I am new to BMX. I have included pictures and labelled the parts. I am now not sure I bought the correct gyro?

 

gyro1ABC.jpg Parts labelled.

 

Below is my headset on which I would like to fit this, but it seems too loose/big for my bike. It has the wholes for the gyro tabs. I have loosened the existing parts just to show what it currently has. It doesn't seem to fit with these parts nor without them:

 

neckA.jpg Bike itself

 

 

I appreciate any suggestions.

Thanks

Snip.

post #2 of 12

Haven't sent one up in ages, but first time I did it with a simuliar setup worked fine. Firstly, do you or do you not have gyro tabs? Part c I belive is there only so you don't have to use gyros tabs. 

Edit, I'll say it like this. If you have gyro tabs, you don't need part c. If you don't, then part c will fit somewhere in the headset. Just fiddle about with it until it fits most snug and makes most sense. Look like it will go under or above the headset cap.

After that is all done, and the headset is put all back together. Put part a on top, until it sits ontop of the gyro tabs or on top of part c.

Put back any spacers on top of the headset, and then part b will go on top. And you should be able to work it from there, hope you understand mate. If not just ask

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post #3 of 12

you cannot put that part C (bottom gyro plate) on a bike with an integrated headset. on an older press-in headset, you would remove the top cup, sandwich the bottom plate C between the top of the head tube and the cup, and press the cup back in. since that frame has an integrated headset and no cup to press in, you cannot use that bottom cup.

 

instead, you have to drill and tap some holes into the frame. here's some detailed instructions about how to do that. http://www.bmx-zone.com/en-article-id-666.html

stop whining and go ride your bike.

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stop whining and go ride your bike.

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post #4 of 12
His frame has mounts icon_smile.gif

Get gyro tabs, they will screw into the side of your headtube. No need for the bottom place (C in the first image). B goes under your stem, and A is the gyro itself, it goes under B, but it's not a tight fit - it's sort of a loose fit.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OVhBEHk5QiU

I only spent a couple minutes watching it because I got bored, BUT it seems like it should do it.

Heido Ho neighbor!

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Heido Ho neighbor!

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post #5 of 12
Thread Starter 

Thanks for the replies, OMGitsMe and Mack_turtle!

EDIT: Thanks Pickles, just read your reply when I posted. So it should be OK even if loose?

 

I have now installed the gyro tabs and placed pieces A and B where I think they should go. See pictures.

 

If I balance part A on top the gyro tabs, it looks OK, but as you can see in the second picture, part A is actually quite big and would hang loose if not balanced on top. I guess it should be fine when I put the break cables in place and it all pulls tight? What do you think?

 

So my questions are,

1) does the size look OK or is part A too big?

2) Is the other part B correct?

 

All of this seems to fit over the existing headset washers and nuts.

 

Thanks!

 

Pciture below shows gyro balancing on gyro tabs:

gryoon2.jpg Balanced on gyro tabs, over existing headset nuts.

 

 

Second picture below, the gyro part A is loose if not balanced on gyro tabs, I guess it needs the cables to hold it in place, but it looks too big to me, like it will rub when riding:

 

gyroon3.jpg - Looks loose?

post #6 of 12
Nope, part A is just fine there. It's not a tight fit. That's the piece that rotates the cables around.

B is upside-down though. icon_smile.gif.

By the way: In the video he talks about the specific plates for stems. Some stems have specific plates, but yours probably doesn't. The best thing to do is to put a spacer between your plate and stem (once it's flipped).

Heido Ho neighbor!

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Heido Ho neighbor!

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post #7 of 12
Thread Starter 

Thanks again Pickles. I will experiment further and feedback to hopefully confirm it is working well :)

post #8 of 12

flip the top gyro plate over from where you have it in the photo. you might need a thin headset spacer on top of it so the stem compresses the headset.

 

I didn't even see the holes for gyro tabs in that first photo.

 

by the way, thanks for providing GOOD photos! so many people take lousy, dark, out of focus, grainy photos of their bikes. this was really helpful.

stop whining and go ride your bike.

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stop whining and go ride your bike.

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post #9 of 12
Thread Starter 

Thank you Mack_turtle

Quick update...

 

Cables are now in place and it appears to be working except for a frustrating couple of millimetres of slack cable at the break leaver. The tightening nuts are fully out from the stem up, so I think I will need a thin headset spacer, as you suggested. Top Gyro plate is flipped as suggested.

 

My impression is that there is probably some extra cable because of the smaller integrated headset compared to a larger headset which would tighten the cable more naturally. 

 

I will test it out on the street and see if it improves before adding a spacer. :)

 

breakspace.jpg annoying space :)

 

 

Close up on finished gyro in place with cables. Should it help anyone to compare notes in the future:

 

finishedgyro.jpg Finished Yippy!

 

Great Forum by the way, thanks for letting me join! 

 

post #10 of 12
Dont thank us, that's all Wynex that got it up, Trimix helped a lot, Smickus seems to be doing a lot of work nowadays too.

PS - The barrel adjusters around the gyro itself might need some work.

The problem you have at the lever is easy to deal with. You need to cut the cable! icon_smile.gif When you cut it, you'll need to look for cable knarps to put one on the end of it and that goes into the lever.

Anyway, back to the barrel adjusters. Those help eliminate what is called bearing flop or gyro flop, not sure that there's an official name for it. Basically that means that when the bars get turned about, the gyro doesn't wiggle at all but stays in place. It's a bitch to deal with when you first start running a gyro but it becomes easier to deal with when you have more time with them.

You have the same "problem" as I do - a shorter steerer tube than a lot of bikes. Means you won't have as much room for the gyro to pull. A little bit of a bitch to deal with but it's not too bad, and when you work on a bike that has more room for pull, it's ten times easier.

Heido Ho neighbor!

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Heido Ho neighbor!

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post #11 of 12
Thread Starter 

Well it is all your contributions which are helping! icon_biggrin.gif

OK, so it survived the street test so I will keep going until I get around to buying some cable karps (I didn't even know they existed! icon_redface.gif so glad for the suggestion).

I thought of cutting a longer piece of the black cable cover with an extra 1 cm to force the break cable to use that extra 2 mm slack, but I cannot see a way to unscrew the gyro splitter cylinder system at the top to put the cable cover over the existing cable without cutting it. (Hope that makes sense). So I will enjoy it as it is for now. :)

 

 

post #12 of 12
No, that makes plenty of sense and is exactly why I said you'll need the knarps to cut the cables down icon_smile.gif

Heido Ho neighbor!

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Heido Ho neighbor!

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