Emily Dickinsons Amazing But Cheap BMX Toolkit [Archive]

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emilydickinson

02-01-2005, 01:58 AM

Article from BMX-Zone.com, http://www.bmx-zone.com/en-article-id-80.html

Having the right tools to fix your bike is just as important as what bike you ride. In some ways more important. I've noticed many riders seem to view BMX repair as Voodoo, and if you don't know what tools to use, it may seem that way. I've put this togethert, as I feel with the correct tools in front of you, bike repair and maintenance is fairly simple. I also have a day off work, too much we*d and can't ride because there is a foot of snow on the ground. I've decided to put together a set of tools which will allow you to do just about everything for less than $150.00, and which should last you a lifetime. Not all of these are shop quality tools, but they're decent and should last the average rider a long, long time. Sure, it doesn't include the tools for pressing in headsets or frame repair, but it's cheaper to buy your local BMX mechanic a sixer or Sammy Smiths (Oatmeal Stout if you need to know...) than it is to own those ultra expensive tools. Happy wrenching.


 A good pair of cable cutters are a necessity for working on brakes. A regular wire cutter won't get you a clean cut on housing or cable. It will fray the ends and make installing cable a chore. These Park cutters are the most expensive tool on the list. They're far from the best cutters out there (Felco are the best, you can cut cable your whole life and give them to your grandkids for their BMX'es), but they work very, very well for under $30. 




Ahh, the lowly tire lever. Sure, they cost almost nothing, but when you have a flat they make life many times easier. 20" tires are a bitch to get seated without levers, so spend two dollars and buy a set of three. Never use the metal levers, they'll bend your spokes and make flat spots in your rims.




Pliers are very handy for all types of bike repairs. First, remember pliers are only for holding, never for turning. Pliers work great for pulling cable taught, and holding other tools still at akward angles. You'll also need pliers to squeeze on cable ends when installing new cables.




Spend a couple dollars on a decent phillips head screwdriver. You may need this for adjusting brakes and brake springs. Some bikes have allen heads on the brakes, so this may be unnecessary. May also be used on some brake lever barrell adjusters. May also be used for self defense if attacked by Goblins while soing BMX repair.




This is a 30/32 mm headset wrench, which will fit most standard and oversized BMX threaded headsets. You'll need this for adjusting the locknuts to get a smooth running bike, and to take the headset out to clean and replace the bearings. This is why I say to hell with threadless headsets. They can't be adjusted at all, if it doesn't fit your screwed, and stuck with the factories 'adjustment'. This a medium weight tool and can be had for under $10 dollars.




This is a medium weight 15mm pedal wrench and 36mm headset wrench. The pedal side will fit all pedals on a 3 piece crank (9/16"). If you have one piece cranks, you'll need a wrench that fits a 1/2" pedal. The 36mm headset opening will work on a few oversized threaded headsets, so it's nice to have this. The leverage on this wrench is decent, but pedals are often difficult to remove. If you can swing it, the park 'Battleaxe" pedal wrench is enormous, and has openings for 1/2" and 9/16" pedals. You remove the right pedal by turning counterclockwise, and left pedal by turning clockwise. Always grease the axels on your pedals.




A gear brush makes cleaning chains and sprockets much simpler. Yes, you can use a toothbrush, but what I like about this is the 'pick' side which fits perfectly into cogs, drivers and chains to get the really bad crud. Soak the offending parts in diesel gas ('petrol' for the Brit impaired) for a few hours then scrub like Lady Macbeth. Presto - like new drivetrain. Also good for brushing your teeth and beard.




This little beasty takes the freewheel off of freewheel hubs. It comes in various configurations for different freewheels (ACS, ODY etc...), and most freewheels come with the tool. If you don't get one with your freewheel, bitch at the bike shop, they always come packaged together (Oh, yeah everyone buys parts on the internet - I digress). The best way to do this is, is to put the remover in a vice, place the wheel on top and pretend you're turning the steering wheel on a bus. The most stubborn freewheel will usually pop right off. You can also put the remover on, tighten the axel nut above it to hold the tool, and turn the remover counterclockwise with an adjustable wrench. If you have a cassette hub, you'll need the appropriate lockring removal tool. Just twist off the lockring and slide off the cassette.




Park bills this as a 'BMX Multi Tool', and it's not perfect but it's cheap. It has the most common metric and standard sizes for stem bolts, brakes and some crank pinch bolts. It also has flathead and phillips head screwdrivers. It's sometimes difficult to open a stuck bolt with a multi tool, but for the cash this is a good deal and you can throw it in a sweatshirt pocket and make a lot of adjustments on your bike while you're out riding.




A nice floor pump will save you hours of aggravation. Gas station pumps are unpredictable, and it's really easy to pop a tube. Hand pumps take forever to get a BMX tube to the correct PSI. Just shell out and get a nice metal pump and make your life easier.


 .

Having the right amount of air in your tires is one of the most critical adjustments on your bike. It's also one of the simplest, and one of the few things that will make a fast, noticeable improvement in the way your bike feels. The gauges on most pumps are horribly innacurate. Those little metal air pressure gauges aren't meant for bikes, and are also pretty innacurate. For $15.00 US you can buy this amazing digital gauge and check pressure to 1 PSI. It has a light up display, fits Presta and Schraeder valves, and Bike Planet donates some of their profits to bike worthy causes. Have correctly filled tubes and be charitable simultaneously.




You must own a chainbreaker. Using a nail and hammer will wreck your chain and is a good way to have a wreck from a bent link. This is about $15.00 US and I've even used it to break a Shadow Chain. This also won't bend in a week like the one's from Dan's Comp.




The tool below is a thin walled 14mm socket that 's used to remove crank bolts. I've found that most sockets are a wee bit too thick to get inside a crank arm, so this is right tool for the job. The really long padded handle makes sure you won't strip the crank bolt, a time honored BMX disaster.




These only cost $3.00 yet everyone insists on using a flathead screwdriver to hold their chainring bolts when they're switching gearing. This tiny wrench easily fits behind your chainring and has a slotted head to hold the nuts still while you remove the bolts from the other side with an allen key. If you strip the chainring bolts and nuts, it's a pain in the ass to get them out without bending and ruining the chainring. Spend the $3.00.




Get an adjustable wrench with a large jaw and a fairly small handle, to work on your brakes, help adjust your cones and turn the various oddball nuts on your friends bikes.




If you need to adjust your hubs, which is something every rider should know how to do, you need cone wrenches. These odd shaped wrenches slip onto the cones, and with the help of a box wrench or adjustable wrench, let you adjust the play in your hubs. The correct adjustment is as smooth as possible with no play. Each of these wrenches gives you two sizes, in this case 14/15mm and 17/18mm. You may also want a 19mm and a 20mm, depending on your own wheels. These are quite cheap. A full set of the pro park wrenches (one size per wrench with long, padded handles) is only $27.00, but these are about $5.00 each.




This picture is quite deceiving, as this is actually a tiny wrench which costs about $3.oo. It has an 8mm and a 10mm opening, and will work on just about every brake bolt theire is, including the locknuts, adjusting nuts and anchor bolts. It's small enough to make adjustments in any position while the brakes are on the bikes.




Having a really high quality crescent wrench that fits your axel (most likely 3/8" or 14mm) nuts will save you the trauma of having to remove stripped nuts. A good wrench will prevent this by fitting correctly and keeping its' shape. It may also fit your stem cap bolt if you have one.




Never use the wrong size hex key in a blolt head. Sometimes it's difficult to tell what the right size is, so by having a good quality metric and standard hex set, you'll be able to use any bolt on any bike. I bought this for $2.00 dollars at a hardware store and it has 20 total sizes. It's a good idea to have these around, with the current environment of engineering in BMX you never know what size bolt you're going to see on a part.




Purchase the biggest, beefiest 8mm hex key you can to remove crank arm bolts. I find these to be the most stubborn part on many bikes, so the more leverage you have the better. Get a cartoonishly large one, you'll be happy you did.




If you run pegs, an enormous 4 way socket (14/15/17/19 mm) is the only way to tighten the axel bolts without a problem. A socket set with an extension usually isn't long enough, and if it is it wobbles and will lead to stripping. This lets you tighten those suckers down hard without slipping a bolt, even with huge pegs (flatlanders...). This one was $6.99 at Pep-Boys and I expect to leave it in my will.




Here's three different spoke wrenches. I suggest you own one of each. get a really nice Park one in the size of your current wheels for wheel truing. Get a 3 way or an 8 way wrench to carry in your pocket when you ride. Nothing shuts down a session like a loose or broken spoke.




Remember, I know what is best for everyone.

PArider

02-01-2005, 02:34 AM

very nice post emily

Street Cowboy

02-01-2005, 02:43 AM

i like my deep socket wrench though! and my axles are strip free..

anyhow yea great artical! nice pics. good work! now for the essy on 16th century womens lit..

nate-14

02-01-2005, 02:47 AM

5park tool wrenches is way too much, all u need is like a craftsman set, besides i my shop has quit using park tools cuz those wrenches bend easy as hell

emilydickinson

02-01-2005, 02:52 AM

Yeah, I know, but the whole challenge for me was to do it on teh cheap, and not everyone needs a whole expensive set of Craftsman. At my shops I have like 6 grand worth fo Campy tools. I was trying to make something utilitarian for the average BMX'er who isn't a mechanic and is broke.

Louis K

02-01-2005, 03:10 AM

Sweet article! I need a metal pump like that, cone wrenches, the park cutters (Im sick of using old wire cutters that fray my wires and makes it impossible to fix!). That gear brush looks nice I actually was using a toothbrush a few weeks ago before I picked myself up some white lightening 8)

I need that chain breaker. I just bought myself one for $3 used off a good friend. Its good enough to take out all pins out of 1/8" chains but I don't think it can handle the stress of the shadow chain.

That 4 way wrench seems like a good investment too! Even though I haven't stripped my axle bolts yet ever on any bike I had I think I could get my pegs tightened just a little bit more tighter with this :)

Trimix

02-01-2005, 03:11 AM

That looks like my tool kit, great usable info in this post.

I would have put the chainbreaker higher up though....j/k (I know it's not in any specific order)

Dakwota

02-01-2005, 08:57 AM

Great article Emily,
I have most tools there but not any of the BMX specific ones (like spoke adjuster and chain breaker) and also a 4 way wretch...
Gotsa get me one of those! :D

Worcester Joe

02-01-2005, 10:52 AM

Really good article... :D

whats size chain tool is that CT5?

I tried using one that looked like that on my shadow chain but it didn't fit. I wont a cheaper alternative to a CT7. £25 for a chain tool is pretty steep. (thats even trade price :( )

fairtrade

02-01-2005, 10:41 PM

I have a tip for using a normal cutter for a brake cable:

1. Find the spot EXACTLY where you want to cut it down to. Make a mark about a centimetre past. (thats a 3/8" axle width if you're an imperial freak)(:P)

2. Get a good flame from a Zippo lighter or a gas cooker hob (use the smallest one)

3. Using the flame, BURN, yes, BURN the cable at the marked point. We're talking TOTAL oxidation here, as in white hot. This is why I said mark it 1cm away - the H.A.Z. will spread like wildfire.

4. You should have burnt the cable to cinders at that point. Give it a good flick with your fingers. If it doesn't come off...

5. Most pliers have a sharp part at the pivot. Put the burnt cable at this point, get a hammer, make sure that the pliers are on the floor, and give it a good whack. The cable will split apart, cleanly. Make sure you put wood under the pliers or be in for hell with parents/spouse

Street Cowboy

02-01-2005, 11:56 PM

mm is metric

drk_fly

02-02-2005, 12:00 AM

i went out and bought some finish line and a chain breaker. horay!

redbone

02-06-2005, 07:55 PM

emily, have you got any experience with TAX tools? and are there really big difference between some cheap spoke wrench and expencive ones? is it worth to pay $10 for it?

emilydickinson

02-08-2005, 12:18 AM

Hmm, I've honestly never heard of TAX tools, but I'd love any info you have. My theory on tools is this - the main differnce between expensive and inexpensive tools is how long they last. In most cases, expensive tools don't work any better. $10 is about the limit I would spend on a spoke wrench. DT Swiss makes a $35 spoke wrench, but I don't see how it works any better than the $10 model Park makes. Sure, Campy tools are nice, and seem to last forever, but cost ten times the price of a comparable Park model. If you don't own a shop, the cheap stuffwill work fine. Just be careful to stop usning it when it eventiually wears out so you don't damage your bike.

Korey

02-10-2005, 08:28 AM

one wrench i would add in there is a wrench that fits over they oddly big flat bolts on cranks... they are a pain in the ass to try to get off with out a proper wrench

nutsgeezer

02-10-2005, 09:26 AM

mm is metric so is cm, metres and kilometres.

WeThePeople

02-12-2005, 02:33 AM

hmmm awesome article, sticky...

Korey

03-04-2005, 07:08 AM

only retarded thing about the ct-5 is you can't use it propery on the little fatter kmc chains but not a worry you can just put it in the other little holes and wont bend those little things that hold it in place like it would do to them cheap chain breakers i went through hell trying to make one of those cheap ones work then gave up and bought that one, it was worth it.

Hellfury

03-19-2005, 07:41 PM

this article is one of the best i ever read here 8)

bikerboy1391

04-22-2005, 02:30 AM

One of the MOST HELPFUL posts ive ever seen.

i_have_a_bike

06-12-2005, 01:37 AM

and whered you get your oh so great chain breaker

emilydickinson

06-12-2005, 08:03 PM

From the Park Tool wholesaler where I work.

Antagonist

07-01-2005, 03:03 PM

my tool kit is now complete

sighlent

07-08-2005, 07:47 AM

i think you should invest in a camera that takes clear pictures

hahahahahahah

emilydickinson

07-08-2005, 02:11 PM

If I blow you will you buy me one? h ah ah ha

sighlent

07-08-2005, 03:26 PM

send me blurry pictures of yer mouth sos i can decides ifn its pertynuff

sighlent

07-08-2005, 03:27 PM

hey straight edge vegan kid

xmaroonx

username on soulseek is deathwish

b8m1x9

07-11-2005, 06:27 AM

tools are all well and good, but now what...

THIS!

http://www.parktool.com/repair_help/FAQindex.shtml

shadow_conspiracybmx

07-15-2005, 10:57 PM

5park tool wrenches is way too much, all u need is like a craftsman set, besides i my shop has quit using park tools cuz those wrenches bend easy as hell

exactly, **** park tools

emilydickinson

07-16-2005, 09:17 PM

5park tool wrenches is way too much, all u need is like a craftsman set, besides i my shop has quit using park tools cuz those wrenches bend easy as hell

exactly, f*ck park tools

Why exactly would that be? Park Tools are the best all around bike tools by far. Sure, Campy tools are well made, but they are 3 to 5 times the price of the Park versions, and Campy doesn't make many tools at all, as they're mainly geared towards road bikes. Park Tools are not junk. The shop quality tools they make are excellent and nearly aways do the job. I've worked as a pro mechanic and engineer in the bike business for quite a while, and nearly everyone uses Park Tools. Sure, there consumer line of tools aren't the best, but they are decent. The heavy duty stuff is great. Who makes a better repair stand? Or a better pedal wrench than the battle axe? I'm waiting. I think you are absolutely wrong and speaking out of your ass.

Ebah4290

07-17-2005, 07:42 AM

Some people are crazy. They think that if a tool breaks becuase they abuse it, that it must be junk.

CrazeD

07-24-2005, 10:59 PM

Why does everyone use a chain breaker?

I just take my dremel and grind down a pin on my chain and it literally falls out, no hassle of breaking a chain breaker and all that crap.

I have a Craftsman tool set. And about the 4 - way for loosening/tightening axle nuts inside a peg, well that's not a must. A nice 6 inch extension is more than long enough, and it won't move if you know how to use a tool.

Good write up though.

emilydickinson

07-25-2005, 10:48 PM

A chainbreaker is a much better tool to open a chain than a dremel. A dremel will work, but it's easy to wreck the chain, and it's overkill. Why carry a Dremel when a ten dollar hand tool will work better? Yes a ratchet will work a charm for axlebolts. However, a 4 way is deepr and gives you more levarage, so it's a better tool if w're being picky.

CrazeD

07-26-2005, 12:05 AM

Actually that 4 way isn't deeper than a deep socket. :?

But hell, I use one too.. just saying it is easily done with a ratchet and socket.

emilydickinson

07-26-2005, 12:07 AM

Agreed both work. But hey, my 3/8 ratchet was 40 rocks and the 4 way was 8 rocks.

Louis K

07-26-2005, 03:49 AM

A reason why i like the 4 way tool better is it works for me and my friend. It has a 15mm (for my front hub) 19mm (for my back hub) and 17mm (for my friends hub).

That beats carrying around a wrench, extension, and 3 sockets around :)

nutsgeezer

07-26-2005, 03:18 PM

I dont think it does. A 4 way is much bigger. Everyone I know has 17mm bolts, but I have to carry a 14 for my cranks.

Wynex

08-07-2005, 10:45 AM

This is a great article! I put it on BMX-Zone.com and sharpened the pictures up.

skillsthatkills

08-11-2005, 08:53 PM

i love you emily :lol:

Andy G

08-11-2005, 09:19 PM

i love you emily :lol:Don't we all?

jules

08-23-2005, 12:26 AM

Ive got that chain tool

stolen_bikes

11-11-2005, 06:00 AM

5park tool wrenches is way too much, all u need is like a craftsman set, besides i my shop has quit using park tools cuz those wrenches bend easy as hell

mastercoryd

01-08-2006, 07:33 AM

niceeeeee post chain brakers are very important like u said master links are junk... i had a danscomp on my shadow it never even ligned up right it mushroomed pins and it snapped in half so i went out n bought a park its really nice and has great precision, i usually keep all the tools in my backpack and bring them everytime i ride, any problems fix my bike right then and there

erenes

06-19-2006, 05:35 AM

my experience is :

- get good quality hardened allen keys. bad and short one ill dammage bolt heads. Bolts used in stems for example are usually low quality not hardened. Sometimes they are not standard one (nor 6 nor 8mm) - but funny 7mm :evil: PLus sometimes the got smaller machined head and smaller hole in the stem. TOO BAD if you dammage the bolts with WEAK allen key.

-spoke wrench: choose apropriate size to fit YOUR spoke nipples. I used always DT niplles - co black Park tool was to super tught fitting and green one - for loose fit for example for just starting building the wheel, then black for tightening.

Then I got anouther spokes with not DT nipples and I was unable to fit black and that time my green key was tight fitting. So it depends on nipples size. TO tightening the spokes well use only tight fitting wrench not to dammage the nipples.

Another opition is to find a good "diamond shape" wrench for super tightening withouth dammaging nipples. It fit almost around all nipple allowing you to use much more force beetween dammaging nipples. I got PEDROS brand one.

Park colored keys:
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/harris/images/TL7075-6.JPG
http://gallery.rei.com/media/546066_321Prd.JPG
SW-0 (Black handle) 3.22mm //.127 nipple
SW-1 (Green handle) 3.3mm //.130 nipple
SW-2 (Red handle) 3.45mm //.136 nipple
SW-3 (Blue handle) 3.96mm //.156 nipple

Pedros PRO spoke wrench: (try to notice the other side shape):
http://www.evanscycles.com/product_images/N178.jpg
http://images.amazon.com/images/P/B0006511AM.01-A2TA1K4B0Y2H77._SCLZZZZZZZ_.jpg

PaK

06-30-2006, 07:52 AM

band aid

07-09-2007, 11:40 PM

Ive got that chain tool
me too.

bump

10-05-2007, 10:02 PM

It is far easier to buy your tools in the UK from a Motor Factor or Tool Factor. You get much higher quality for generally less money than buying from a bike shop (spoke wrenches notably excepted).

I use the same tool set for maintaining my bike as I do my cars.

Where ever possible use a socket for everything, as it puts an even load onto the nut / bolt and reduces the chance of killing it.

aDDikT

04-25-2009, 08:20 AM

Have to agree with the bit on hex keys to get crank arm bolts off.

Took me ages to get mine off the first time I tried.